We are all well, but, warning, this won't be one of my most chipper posts. We arrived in Tulum, Mexico after a long two days of travel with a choppy ferry ride from Moorea island to Tahiti, a turbulent red-eye flight over the Pacific, a rushed layover in LAX, arrival in the hectic Cancun airport and a 4-hour taxi to Tulum. The taxi ride was supposed to be an hour and a half but road construction delayed us. It felt so good to rip the double masks from our faces after wearing them for 36 hours straight. Wearing a mask hasn't phased me much in months, but when slapped in the face with that hot, sticky 85° weather in Mexico—wow, it's uncomfortable—but you do what you need to do.
Clint and I had a revelation on our LAX-Cancun flight. We realized we have been traveling mostly with a retiree crowd the last several months. Our last flight reminded us of trips to Vegas where the plane was loaded with 20 to 30-somethings ready to paartaay!! The vibe was lively and youthful and something we hadn't seen in a while. We took three COVID tests in the three weeks before arriving in Mexico (French Polynesia and the US required it). We would have felt more at ease knowing that our fellow passengers had been required to take a test to enter Mexico from the US... but, here I am assuming, maybe some had.
Mexico is seeing its worst number of COVID cases and still, only 20-25% of locals and tourists are wearing masks. Tulum is not that crowded though, making it easier than I thought to distance from others, which is slightly comforting.
The food has been amazing and we have been only greeted by only friendly people. I've always loved how warm and family-oriented the Mexican culture is. Though still so far from home, being here feels very familiar to us since we have spent a lot of time in Mexico over the years. I love seeing the lit-up tacos carts and other vendors selling an assortment of novelties at night with loud Mexican music playing in the background.
What has been most shocking to us here is the drastic disparity of wealth. The layout of Tulum consists of a pretty traditional, semi-touristy, mile-long main street offering colorful shops and enough great restaurants to keep your belly full. But a twenty-minute walk from the main strip lies the edge of a whole new world—a brand, new "eco-friendly" planned community, housing acres of luxury condos with new ones being built one after the other. They provide amenities such as lavish pools, penthouses, yoga studios, beach cruiser bikes and boho-chic cafes and bars that line the perimeter streets back to town. Staged Instagram photo opportunities are everywhere, but the fact they are so blatant about it makes it a little nauseating. A shiny new hipster community wouldn't feel so oddly out of place except for the fact that between its border and the main downtown street lies a shantytown several blocks wide and deep where locals live in stick shacks with no running water, windows or doors and garbage piled high. Relaxing in our comfortable condo blocks away with a beautiful pool, king-size bed, Netflix and a washer and dryer doesn't feel right. We are sure it's just a matter of a year or two before this whole area is totally developed and will feel like an upscale LA beach town and lose its Mexican authenticity.
Tulum's new side of town has many boho-hippie-chic vegan restaurants.
The shantytown between main street and "new" Tulum.
Poolside at our condo.
We came to Tulum because of its many natural and cultural opportunities, but we haven't set out to do any of it yet. We have been set back from traveling through many time zones and the heat. International travel fatigue also has been rearing its head more and more lately and we are less motivated to get out and explore. Somber news from friends and family at home is also making us long to be closer to home. Maybe this feeling will pass or maybe we will head back to the States before our time is out, but first, we have to give this place a chance and get out to see what the Yucutan Peninsula has to offer. Tomorrow we head to the beach!
We found a great ice cream place on Tulum's main street. We've missed our multi-week ice cream fix we had in Croatia and Italy!
Walking through the barrio between main street and the luxury condos area.
New condos are being built block after block.
Enjoying a solid Mexican meal. Every meal has been delicious.
P.S. We haven't seen many bugs! Surprisingly, for we are backed up to a jungle!
Uncle Mike-We hadn’t noticed such disparity in the West coast Mexican towns we have visited in the past. I won’t walk out without a mask here unless we are out in the wild by ourselves. Too risky here! Love you!
Your travels seem to suggest what Carmen & I have noticed in our travels...that the disparity in affluent & poor seems to be much more noticeable the Southern Hemisphere. We have had some very good and fun times in Mexico but have stayed away from the border towns in recent years. I'm so happy that you guys have been wise in wearing the masks, etc. What an education Austin & Kate are having. Be safe- Love to all of you !
Wow, I'm exhausted just reading your 1st paragraph!! It's best to get your rest in case you do get sick. Stay safe. Love and miss you guys xoxo