Day 16 - Split Decision

Last night, we were whisked away on a super-speed passenger ferry from Korcula to Croatia's second-largest city, Split. I was anxious to see it, for I have read that Split is one of the most prized and picturesque cities in all of Europe and has one of the best-preserved monuments of Roman architecture in the world. Our first impression was a little disappointing. It didn't help that we arrived in the dark...

We toted our luggage off the quiet ferry into the bustling Riva promenade, lined with packed outdoor cafes and bars that spilled into the main square. I was taken by surprise at how large and lively the city was. The streets were colorfully lit, music everywhere and people—lots and lots of people!!

We hadn't seen that many people in one place since February! No one was wearing masks and I began to feel a slight tightening in my chest. We have been so trained to dodge and avoid humans during Corona quarantine that it felt awkward to see large groups of people out having fun (what a downer that is to say!!!). So far, on the trip, we haven't encountered any crowds.

Still masked from the ferry, we were able to keep our distance as we tried to find our accommodation, which was about a 20-minute walk from the port. Our Airbnb is located in the Veli Varoš, one of the most unique parts of the city and just minutes from the Palace. It was initially founded by farmhands and fishermen beginning in the late 17th century and many of the houses and churches still remain today. It has a maze of pedestrian cobblestone streets that wind around the humble "peasant quarters."

As we walked deep into the dimly lit narrow maze, the more ominous the shadows became. Shady characters were hanging out in dark corners, stray cats brushed up against my ankles, groups of men having a smoke gave us slow stares as we walked by. It just felt eerie. We felt like we'd been kidnapped and landed on Pinnochio's Pleasure Island!!!

Finding our place, the front door and the key in the dark was challenging and we were thankful we had done a couple of escape rooms this past year. They proved to be good practice for teamwork under pressure!

Minus the entrance reeking of cigarette smoke and the bathroom smelling like sewer, the place is nice. Austin was stoked to have his own room for the first time and Kate was in love and inspired by the decor. I kept hearing strange noises the whole night and could barely sleep feeling a little uneasy about our third destination.

BUT... we woke up to sunny skies, pretty views out our windows, birds chirping and excitement to explore the new city!! Split felt totally different in daylight and the dark-shadowed corners of our neighborhood felt bright.

After spending the afternoon walking around, it was hard not to fall in love with Split. It has a great mix of fairytale allure, ancient Roman history and modern style mixed with enough grit and character to keep it interesting and craving more.

And, somehow, all the people from the night before disappeared the next day...hmmm... to Pleasure Island?

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