Our third Airbnb in Lisbon is a charm! It's scrumptious, pink and fulfills my Old World living dreams! The floor-to-ceiling windows with shutter doors, antique doorknobs and a wrap-around wrought iron balcony make me beam with happiness. I warned you I go gaga for old interiors!
We set out to do multiple all-day sightseeing missions while here in Lisbon. On the first day, we headed to Castelo de Sao Jorge that majestically towers over the city. We scrambled over medieval castle walls (with little-to-no railings—yikes!) and took in the sweeping views of Lisbon's red-tiled rooftops from classic lookout towers. Far in the distance, we could see a familiar sight—is that San Francisco's Golden Gate Bridge?!? Easy to mistake for the Golden Gate has a doppelganger in Lisbon and her name is 25 of April Bridge. The American Bridge Company built both the San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge (near the Golden Gate) and the 25 of April Bridge, which all look similar.
Kate and I twisted the boys' arms into a visit to the National Coach Museum—it's only the world's largest collection of carriages and coaches!!! No other daughters and wives must have been able to convince their sons and husbands to go for we were the only people there. Seeing the perfectly restored carriages up close was very cool. Even the boys would admit it!
One can imagine how Lisbon must have glistened in its heyday by its stately architecture and streets. Once a global powerhouse, Portugal was at the helm of exploration between the 15th and 17th centuries. The Age of Discovery boded well for Portugal because of its geographic location, dynamic thinkers and master captains. There wasn't a coastline from Lisbon to China that Portugal didn’t explore. Loads of gold, silver, jewels and spices piled in from the newfound trade routes to India, Asia, Africa and Brazil. Unfortunately, this wealthy empire steadily declined after a period of many wars with its neighbors, trouble in the Colonies and a devasting earthquake.
Now worn and weathered, Lisbon still is full of character. What stands out the most are the colorful tiles, called azulejos, adhered to building facades, interior walls, street signs, etc. These ceramic tiles of Moorish origin fascinated King Manuel when he visiting Seville, Spain. Consequently, tons of tile was imported until Portugal started producing its own. Not only are the tiles pleasing to the eye, but they are proven effective at protecting buildings from humidity and aging. Azulejos are commonly blue and white, which is very nostalgic for me. The colors and designs remind me of the decorative plates I'd see in my Grandma Mahoney's gift shop when I was a kid. Sadly, many of these tiles are being pried off buildings only to be sold to antique dealers or hauled off in suitcases as souvenirs.
Portuguese artistic expression doesn't end with their colorful tiled buildings. The streets and sidewalks are just as decorative! They mesmerize pedestrians with swirling and geometric patterns that have been around for hundreds of years, originally installed by prisoners. The limestone and basalt stones shimmer after rain but become terrifyingly slippery—I almost bit it a few times today! Elderly Lisbon residents put the sidewalks at the top of their list of things they most fear! Unfortunately, these mosaic streets and sidewalks are in danger of disappearing. There are fewer and fewer tradespeople interested in learning the backbreaking art of maintaining them. The same thing is happening in Rome, where asphalting is more cost-effective than repairing cobblestones. But the locals aren't letting go without a fight!
FUN FACT: Do you know why Azulejos tiles are usually white and blue? Ever since Europe started its trade relationship with Asia, they were fascinated with Chinese porcelain's elegance and fine touch. It was difficult to manufacture because it used an ingredient that didn't exist in Europe at the time, making it become a luxury object of great rarity. In the 17th century, the Dutch began making tiles in the same blue and white tones. The tiles pleased the Portuguese so much that massive imports were ordered from the Netherlands to decorate their buildings.
