Day 75 - Nuns and Nutella

We visited Lisbon's Carmo Convent, where you can still see the devastating impact of the Great Lisbon Earthquake of 1755—the worst natural disaster recorded in European history. This haunting structure was preserved to remind Lisboetas of the event that forever shaped their history.

The Great Lisbon Earthquake of 1755

While many were attending mass on All Saint's Day morning on November 1, 1755, Lisbon was struck by a 9.0 earthquake that was felt as far away as Finland, even causing church bells to clang in Austria. Being such a holy and celebrated day, every candle in town had been lit and the churches were fully adorned with flowers and decorations. A series of three jolts rocked the city, tipping the candles and igniting fires that ravaged through Lisbon for five days. This horrendous natural disaster killed 50,000 people and leveled most of the city.

After the quake, people fled the rubble to the river for safety, escaping the flames and wide fissures in the ground (up to 9 ft wide). Little did they know, the horror wasn't over. Forty-five minutes later, a 27-foot tsunami rolled in, smashing the town into more pieces and pulling people and debris out to sea. Before the tsunami struck, Lisbon's river had retreated and drained the estuary, revealing many shipwrecks that lined the basin. Many hopeful individuals rushed to claim treasures that might have been aboard, oblivious of the coming tsunami that was about to sweep them away. The wall of water destroyed the Royal Palace and sent Portugal's King Jose I fleeing to the hills. Terrified of walls crashing down on him, he spent the rest of his life living in an extensive complex of luxurious tents with his Royal Court, avoiding ever living under a ceiling again.

In the aftermath of the earthquake, people looked for an explanation of what had caused it. The religious extremists blamed the destruction on the alleged sins of the city's population. In the following months, the Portuguese Inquisition rounded up many heretics to hang or burn as a form of atonement. Geesh!

As the first earthquake studied scientifically, it led to the birth of modern seismology and earthquake engineering. After the quake, Lisbon quickly rebuilt the city and engineered the first-ever earthquake-resistant buildings, which are still standing today.

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Well, that was a dark and depressing page out of world history. It's a reminder that mankind has faced many struggles and but we persevere.

Let's end this on a happy note, like with something sweet like Nutella. I forgot to mention in my last post that Europe's substitute for peanut butter is this heavenly hazelnut chocolate spread. Market shelves are always stocked with many varieties and sizes. I discovered this spreadable goodness on my first trip to Europe in 1998. This discovery led to a few month-long nightly addiction and extra pounds. I had to ween myself off this sugary crack and haven't bought it since (well, maybe once for the kids!).

Another thing that brings me much happiness while walking around Lisbon is seeing the handful of perfectly preserved Old World shops and cafés. There are not many, but the ones that do still exist are exquisite. It's such a treat to peer into their windows and imagine who would have frequented the place, what their conversations may have been about and what they were wearing when these treasures opened for business.

Café A Brasileira One of the oldest and most famous cafés in Lisbon established in 1905. It was a favored haunt of intellectuals, artists, writers and free-thinkers.

Portugal is famous for its high-quality sardines. Those are all sardines tins lining the shelves.

Dining in a traditional Portuguese restaurant where cod is the "hot" dish.

Informative video at Carmo Convent Museum.

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